Cranberry Glades of West Virginia

This past summer I had the pleasure of revisiting one of the most botanically interesting and diverse areas of my region of the country: the Cranberry Glades of West Virginia.  If you'll remember correctly, I posted about this famed botanical area from last year's trip a ways back but wanted to give another, more detailed glance (at least photogenically) at its splendor for my readers.  This post is designed to be more of a visual journey; if you're interested in learning more you can read the previous corresponding post here.

View across the rolling green mountains of southeast West Virginia at 4,500 feet

Deep in the bowl-like valley of the surrounding mountains lie the millennia-old open peat bogs of the cranberry glades.  This antiquated relic of the last glacial epoch is a prime representation of a habitat type and ecosystem typically found hundreds of miles to the north.  While the glaciers never made it far enough south to physically alter or shape West Virginia, their climatic influence and boreal conditions allowed its accompanying northern plants to invade its borders tens of thousands of years ago.  As the massive sheets of ice receded back to the north, they left those unique plants behind in the refuge of the higher elevations that managed to replicate their cooler environmental requirements.  Once the temperate deciduous forests began to creep back north from the south, they displaced these disjunct communities until just about all that remained today are the ancient, peat-filled bogs of the cranberry glades.  Given enough time and the addition of an ever-warming climate, even this famous place will end up lost to the ages.

Large Purple Fringed orchid (Platanthera grandiflora)

One of the best finds in the cranberry glades region are the forest springs and seeps that are home to the stunning large purple fringed orchids (Platanthera grandiflora) growing along their moist, steep banks.

Large Purple Fringed orchid (Platanthera grandiflora)

A closer look at their remarkable flowers shows just how complex and artfully sculpted each individual inflorescence is.  This particular species was collected a few times in extreme northeastern Ohio back in the early 1900's and never seen again.

Allegheny Brookfoam (Boykinia aconitifolia)

Growing and blooming in profusion with the large purple fringed orchids was the unusual and unique Allegheny brookfoam (Boykinia aconitifolia).

Hay-scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula)

Thick seas of hay-scented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula) glowed a vivid green in the darkened understories of the surrounding woodlands.

Canada Lily (Lilium canadense)

Canada Lily (Lilium canadense)

Just beginning to open their gorgeous red-orange flowers in the higher elevations was Canada lily (Lilium canadense) with their delicately speckled tepal undersides.

Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia)

The evergreen mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) shrubs were in peak bloom at the highest elevations and gave off an appearance and aroma I wouldn't soon forget.

Running Clubmoss (Lycopodium clavatum)

Fan clubmoss and tubercled orchid leaves

The higher and drier, acidic conditions of the mountains were full of interesting fern allies such as these club mosses.  Long runners of the aptly named running clubmoss (Lycopodium clavatum) spread across the most open and barren of soils, while in more moist and shaded areas fan clubmoss (Diphasiastrum digitatum) ruled.

Rosebay Rhododendron (R. maximum)

Rosebay Rhododendron (R. maximum)

While the mountain laurel was at peak, its heath family relative, rosebay rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum) was just beginning to unfurl its tightly bunched pink buds.  One glance at its flowers in full bloom and its not hard to understand why this species is West Virginia's official state wildflower.

The Cranberry Glades botanical area!

At an elevation of about 3,400 feet above sea level, the cranberry glades remain relatively cool during even the summer months; especially with the supplementary chilled air flowing down from the surrounding mountains that rise an additional 1,000+ feet.  It was late June during this visit and while I left a hot and muggy Ohio, I was greeted by temperatures in the upper 60's upon my arrival to the glades.  It wasn't just the atmospheric conditions that were favorable and admirable but the flora too!

Looking across the open expanse of bog full of rare, disjunct plants

A spectacular view across the open peat-filled bogs of the cranberry glades full of rare and disjunct flora and fauna.

Green False Hellebore (Veratrum viride) 

Red Elderberry (Sambucus racemosa)

Two frequent and conspicuous plants in the understory of the glade's surrounding swamp woods was the green false hellebore (Veratrum viride) and red elderberry (Sambucus racemosa).  Dozens of the hellebore's large basal leaves dotted the forest floor but only a handful of blooming stalks could be found.

Open swampy habitat in the cranberry glades

The wetter areas of the swamp opened up into a more marsh-like habitat full of sedges and other emergent aquatic vegetation.

Appalachian Jacob's Ladder (P. vanbruntiae)

Appalachian Jacob's Ladder (P. vanbruntiae)

One of the most interesting and rare of the open swamp habitat's plant species was the very unusual Appalachian jacob's ladder (Polemonium vanbruntiae).  This scarcity only grows in a handful of northeastern states and is related to our common spring-flowering jacob's ladder (P. reptans) but differs with larger, more erect flowers and habit.

Oblong-fruited Serviceberry (Amelanchier bartramiana)

Another northern disjunct far from home in the glades is the oblong-fruited serviceberry (Amelanchier bartramiana).  This species only occurs in New England and the northern Great Lakes states and is at its most southern locale here in southeastern West Virginia.  Its oblong-shaped fruit (duh) and leaves on very short petioles (seemingly sessile) are excellent identification factors.

View across the more filled-in part of the bog mat

Looking out across the more filled-in areas of the peat bogs shows a great diversity of plants such as red spruce (Picea rubens), black chokeberry (Photinia melanocarpa), cinnamon fern (Osmandastrum cinnamomeum), grass pink orchid (Calopogon tuberosus), rose pogonia orchid (Pogonia ophioglossoides), pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) and bristly dewberry (Rubus hispidus).

Grass Pink orchids in full bloom above the sphagnum

The bubblegum colored grass pink orchids (Calopogon tuberosus) were in full bloom across the large, open expanse of sphagnum moss and cranberry.  Their brilliant, jeweled pink appearance was set perfectly against the vibrant emerald green vegetation.

Grass Pinks (Calopogon tuberosus)

Grass Pinks (Calopogon tuberosus)

More looks at the gorgeous forms and displays of the lovely grass pink orchids.  The adorable little mini Christmas trees in the photo on the right belong to another fern-ally lycopod called ground pine (Dendrolycopodium obscurum).

Large Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon)

I would be remiss if I didn't make specific mention of the bog's namesake plant: the cranberry.  Both large (Vaccinium macrocarpon) and small (V. oxycoccos) occur in the glades and were in full bloom during my visit. These pictured belong to the large cranberry species.

Rose Pogonia Orchid (Pogonia ophioglossoides)

Another cute, pink member of the orchid family blooming in the large expanse of bog was the rose pogonia (Pogonia ophioglossoides).  The open, windier conditions of the cranberry glades causes the orchids to grow more stunted and much closer to the ground than the specimens typically seen in kettle pond sphagnum bog mats.

Rose Pogonia Orchid (Pogonia ophioglossoides)

Rose Pogonia Orchid (Pogonia ophioglossoides)

You'd be hard pressed to find a more dainty, charming orchid growing in such an otherwise demanding and harsh environment.

Characteristic pitchers of the northern Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia purpurea)

Another characteristic plant of the cranberry glades area is the always-popular northern pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea).  This species is much more at home in the north in acidic kettle lake bogs and shoreline fens of the Great Lakes but the similar climatic conditions at the glades do just fine as a substitute.

Characteristic pitchers of the northern Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia purpurea)

Perhaps equally as unique and eye-catching as their leaves, the flowers of the pitcher plants sit high above the leaves on thick, red stalks.  If you can think of a more alien-like flower, I'd love to know which one(s) you might suggest!

Looking upstream while crossing the mighty Ohio River

After a morning and afternoon well spent in the glades it was time for the long trip home.  I had plenty to digest and reflect on after time in one of the region's most exciting and pristine of places.  I hope to head back sometime next year in late spring or fall to see what other botanical wonders await.

The Remarkable Rosebay Rhododendron

Winter is a hard burden to bear for any botanist, birder or naturalist; let alone the one doing the typing.  The rich and vibrant greens give way to the drab greys and browns that adorn the macabre landscape for months on end.  Each day seems more bland than the last with the trees and shrubs laid bear by the chilled winds and blue skies closed out with thick, impenetrable clouds.  There is still an intrinsic beauty to the winter scene however silent or melancholy it may seem.  For not all the light and greenery is gone from the world; some plants still cling to summer's memory.


Winter's chill had finally awoken from its slumber, as if it had suddenly remembered the season.  My slow footsteps broke the stillness of the woods on the brittle ice and accumulated snow as I watched my breath hang in the air and pushed my hands deeper into my coat pockets.  I walked down a lightly-traveled path I'd been down numerous times before.  Deep in the shadows of the Hocking Hills lay the reason for my excursion into the frigid world outside.

Evergreen leaves of the Rhododendron

Rhododendron's trunk and bark

Within the cool and moist sandstone hollows my eyes spotted the leathery, evergreen leaves still tightly clinging to the branches of one of our most beautiful and rare native shrubs, the Rosebay Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum).  Many are familiar with this wondrous species and others in the Heath family (Ericaceae) from cultivation and landscaping.  It's not hard to understand why someone would want these phenomenal plants around come blooming time as you'll soon see.

Flower bud

Last year's emptied seed capsules

Rhododendron's evergreen, thick leaves really set it apart from everything else in Ohio.  There are three other Rhododendron spp. native to Ohio (R. calendulaceum, R. periclymenoides and R. prinophyllum) but none have as thick or leathery leaves as the rosebay.  Larger shrubs of age exhibit a very aesthetically pleasing layering of the branches which help keep this shrub's beauty a year-round thing.  As I stood and admired the maturing flower buds and emptied seed capsules my mind slipped back to a time six months in the past.  Back to a steamy and hot day in early July when you could see the humidity in the air and feel the sweat dripping down your neck.  Back to a time when this rare shrub was in its prime.

Rosebay Rhododendron in perfect, full bloom

You'd be hard pressed to convince me of a more stunning floral display in Ohio than what the rhododendrons are capable of.  Come late June and into early July the flower buds open to reveal gorgeous clusters of cream-colored blossoms fringed with hints of pink.  Each flower is about the size of a half dollar and when bunched together cause for quite the jaw-dropping arrangement.  The flowers bouquet doesn't disappoint either, giving off a very refreshing aroma.

Rosebay Rhododendron flower cluster

The rosebay rhododendron is one of the most common understory shrubs of the southern Appalachians and was even given the honor of being West Virginia's state wildflower for its timeless and common beauty.  A hike through just about any mesic forest on the lower slopes and valleys in the Great Smokey Mountains will give you plenty of chances to see this plant en masse, along with a handful of other members of its genus.  Its range runs from the southern Piedmont of Georgia and South Carolina, up through the Appalachians and on into New England.  In Ohio, the rosebay is rather rare and occurs in localized populations scattered throughout the southeastern quarter of the state.  This plant is an ancient relic from a long extinct river system that brought it to Ohio's soil many, many thousands of years ago.  The primordial Teays River ushered the rhododendrons into the southeastern quarter of Ohio from the southern Appalachians as it carved its course in a northwesterly fashion through West Virginia, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois before dumping into the ancestral Mississippi River. After the glaciers erased the Teays into nothing more than a geological memory, the rhododendrons remained in the humid, cool and protected coves, hollows and north-facing exposures of sandstone.  

Rosebay Rhododendron

All four species of Rhododendron are state-listed in Ohio.  *After attending the biannual rare plant meeting for Ohio, it was determined the aforementioned R. prinophyllum no longer carries the need for listing and was removed from the state's rare flora list*.  Already limited in number by a combination of restrictive habitat requirements and being on the extreme outer fringes of their range here, they have long had to battle man's shovel too.  Many pioneers and settlers prized these shrubs for their spring and summer beauty and dug them up to plant on their homesteads and property.  Digging still remains a threat to the few remaining populations of these incredible woody plants even well over a century later.  Their popularity in the plant trade has made them and their countless cultivars pretty easy to attain in a more sustainable and legal fashion by visiting your local nursery.

A tiny crab spider lies in wait on the stamen of a flower

A brief but powerful gust of freezing air pulls me back to the present and away from the reminiscing warmth and beauty of July.  If you've never seen this or any of its kin in full flower before I highly recommend seeking them out come spring and summer.  From pink to purple, flame-orange to cream they really are too stunning to pass up.  I look forward to hunting down and photographing the other species of Rhododendron in Ohio and sharing them with you when I do.  I hope this post was able to brighten your day and give you a little spring fever!  Winter is coming to a close faster each and every day.