Autumn Color at Conkle's Hollow State Nature Preserve

Fall coming to southeast Ohio is a moment I look forward to all year long.  It's a bittersweet moment at its core as another growing season has come to its inevitable end but the brief flux of color across the region's rolling, contiguously forested landscape makes winter's impending return seem not so rough.  Since moving down to the Athens area over five years ago, I've made sure to make the most out of living in such a spectacular part of the state.  In order to accomplish that there is one pilgrimage that must be made each and every October to a particular sandstone gorge in the renowned Hocking Hills region.

Looking into the bottleneck of Conkle's Hollow from the eastern gorge rim trail

If I've visited Conkle's Hollow state nature preserve once, I've visited it a dozen and a half times at just about every time of the year.  Its sheer sandstone cliff faces and bluffs rise precipitously from the cool, lush hemlock hollow below and is rimmed by an acidic mixed oak and pine forest community.  The views from the gorge rim trail are breathtaking no matter the season but let's not kid ourselves, nothing can best autumn's scene.

Incredible autumn color from all direcitons

The exposed layer of bedrock at Conkle's Hollow and the rest of the region is known as Black Hand sandstone and was laid down over 350 million years ago when an immense, warm shallow sea covered what is current-day Ohio.  The fine sand grains and rock particles that settled at the ocean's river deltas compacted under an ever-increasing amount of pressure and weight from the younger layers of sediment on top.  As the tectonic plates continued to shift and move over the Earth's surface, the eastern edge of the North American continent was forced up as the Appalachians formed, leaving Ohio high and dry and exposed to the elements.  Over the following hundreds of millions of years the softer surrounding bedrock material has been weathered away by the forces of water, ice and wind to reveal the resistant Black Hand sandstone.  Despite its heightened resiliency even it is not immune to the forces of time and erosion and has slowly but surely been carved out into the unique and fascinating gorges, promontories and rock houses we see today.

Stunted and gnarled Virginia pine along the very edges of the sandstone cliff edges and rock faces

When delving into the botanical aspect of any habitat or ecosystem it's important to know the geologic history and background for the corresponding area.  Geology and botany are intimately tied together and produce predictable results depending on the conditions present.  Conkle's Hollow's gorge rim is a harsh and acidic environment with very shallow, fast-draining soils and exposed bedrock with plant associations pretty similar to the Dolly Sods heath barrens I blogged about in the post prior to this.  Tree species such as chestnut/white/scarlet/post oaks, hemlock, Virginia pine, sourwood and serviceberry dominate with a shrub/herbaceous layer comprised of xeric acidophiles like mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia), huckleberry (Gaylussacia baccata), hillside blueberry (Vaccinium pallidum), teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens), trailing arbutus (Epigaea repens), striped wintergreen (Chimaphila maculata), partridgeberry (Mitchella repens) and sawbrier (Smilax rotundifolia).

Unbeatable fall colors at Conkle's Hollow

As the story goes, Conkle's Hollow got its name from an inscription once visible on the western wall of the gorge that read -W.J. Conkle 1797-.  I can't imagine trying to rappel my way down the rock faces of the hollow with the technology and advancements of today, let alone over 200 years ago.  Whomever Conkle was, they certainly had more guts and adventure than I do; no way would I have been able to do such a task.  One wrong move and you're leaving your bones behind at the bottom of the hollow instead of your name!

Sheer sandstone cliffs rising nearly 200 feet above the valley floor

The sandstone cliffs look as imposing as they are impressive and boast vertical heights of nearly 200 feet, making it arguably the deepest hollow in the entire state.  The small creek that gently flows on the valley floor will continue to deepen the hollow millimeter by millimeter as time marches on and only add to its impressive physical relief statistics.  The mixture of evergreen hemlocks and bright yellow birch and tulip poplar at the bottom contrast nicely against the scarlet and orange of the oaks above the pale sandstone during the fall season.

Looking south out of the mouth of Conkle's Hollow and across the Hocking Hills

The fall foliage show has been exceptionally good this year with cool temperatures and wet weather sticking around for most of the month.  The leaves were nearing the end of their peak earlier this week during my visit but there's still time to get out there and see the views and scenery for yourself before it's done and gone for another year.  The view above is one I've admired and soaked in on numerous occasions and one that seems to get better upon each renewed visit.  No roads, no buildings, no powerlines, just ridge after ridge of contiguous forest ensconced in autumn's perfection.

Close up of one of Conkle's most prolific sandstone promontories 

I often tend to favor posts that take the reader places they've rarely, if ever been or perhaps never even heard of but sometimes it's hard to resist sharing a location that just about everyone is familiar with.  Conkle's Hollow is well-known, well-loved and certainly well-visited, as I can't recall a time when the parking lot hasn't had a majority of its spaces filled.  I'm thankful such a timeless and quintessential landscape for the region is preserved and protected as a state nature preserve and open for the public's enjoyment.  I highly encourage anyone reading to get out and visit for yourselves before winter clinches its cold and icy grip over Ohio; whether it's just one of a long string of visits or your first time!

A Sampling of Autumn's Beauty

There's no three-four week stretch I look forward to more than autumn coming to the eastern deciduous forest. Summer's monopoly of green gives way to a cascade of scarlet, orange and gold across the landscape.  The most perfectly crisp shade of sapphire blue fills the cloudless skies above the last gasp of late-season wildflowers. Mornings start dewy and chilled with your breath faintly hanging in the air.  Simply put: I absolutely love this time of the year.  It's as beautiful as it is fleeting.

To celebrate the season's return to Ohio, I've decided to share a number of my personal favorite photographs that I think do well to capture the atmosphere and texture of autumn in our incredible state.  Nature's beauty can speak for itself and there's little hope I could do much to give it the credit it deserves, so I will let the rest of this post go more or less wordless and hope you enjoy the sampling of scenes.  I hope it inspires you to lace up your hiking boots and get out and soak in the colors and beauty for yourselves this autumn season!

*Don't forget you can click each photo to see it larger and in higher resolution.*

Waterloo Wildlife Area, Athens County.  October 2013.

Foggy sunrise behind a mighty white oak.  Adams County.  October 2009.

Ripened pawpaws (Asimina triloba).  Hamilton County.  September 2012.

Narrator and the rolling forests of the Hocking Hills landscape (Conkles Hollow).  Hocking County.  October 2012

Fire orange sugar maple (Acer saccharum).  Hocking County.  October 2009.

American bittersweet (Celastrus scandens).  Union County.  September 2013.

Reflections on Dow Lake, Strouds Run State Park, Athens County.  October 2009.

Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus).  Jackson County.  September 2014.

Celebrated Ohio nature photographer, Ian Adams in Irwin Prairie SNP.  Lucas County.  September 2013.

Common persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) fruits.  Athens County.  September 2014.

Reflections on Lake Ramona, Clear Creek Metro Park, Fairfield County.  October 2014.

Thanks for taking a look and feel free to comment on your favorite photo(s)!  Always fun to see what others find most appealing compared to my tastes.

Early Splashes of Autumn Color

Fall creeps up on me in the same fashion each and every year.  I notice the change in blooming wildflowers and waning sunlight in the late afternoon almost subconsciously as the days of September slip slowly towards October and our inevitable slip into winter.  Cooler temperatures mean I can once again sleep with my windows cracked to allow that crisp, chilled night air to creep in and retire my air conditioning for the season.  It all seems to happen at slow enough intervals for me to never take full notice of the changes happening until that one day where it all just clicks and I realize my beloved fall is here.

This annual moment of recognition always seems to happen to me on the same stretch of country road close to my home.  The diversity of fall wildflowers and changing fall foliage never disappoints and paints a spectacular portrait of scarlet, oranges, and golds.  It's at this time I like to leave the car behind and walk down the road to see what fall scenery awaits the camera and I.

Bottle Gentian  ~  Gentiana andrewsii

The first stop and most anticipated stretch of the road is a wet ditch that contains the unbeatable blue hues of the bottle gentian (Gentiana andrewsii).  The plants on a good year number in the hundreds but the unfortunate drought we suffered through this past year allowed only a few dozen to appear and flower but some were in prime shape and willing to show off their floral beauty.

Poison Ivy  ~  Toxicodendron radicans

It's a shame poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) gets the bad rap it does from so many people and is so quick to be eradicated upon discovery in anything less than a natural setting.  Personally, I love the vine and am of the opinion it has arguably the most stunning multi-colored fall foliage.  Apart from the seasonal color, poison ivy's ripened fruit supplies migrating and over-wintering birds a vital and high quality food source.  I may have been on the losing end of the plant's irritating urushiol oil countless times but it's still not enough of a reason to like this plant any less.

Virginia Creeper  ~  Parthenocissus quinquefolia

Another attractive fall native vine is Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia).  This is often confused with the aforementioned poison ivy which has three leaflets compared to the creeper's five.  Virginia creeper is a very common species throughout the state and is considered an unwelcome weed to some, but once again I welcome it and its foliage/sustenance capabilities.

American Hazelnut  ~  Corylus americana

All along the forest margins to either side of the road were numerous thickets of American hazelnut (Corylus americana), full of matured fruit residing in their papery husks.

New England Aster (darker purple) and Purple-stem Aster (lighter purple)

Blending nicely together against the more warm colors of the leaves were the cool blues and purples of several aster species growing along the road and forest margins.

New England Aster  ~  Symphyotrichum novae-angliae

The dark purple ray flowers of the common New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) are sure to brighten anyone's day with their contrasting golden inner disc flowers.  It can achieve somewhat of a weedy appearance and habit but it's hard not to like or want this frequent fall wildflower around.

Purple-stemmed Aster  ~  Symphyotrichum puniceum

In the more moist sections of the roadside and ditches grew large, bushy thickets of the appropriately-named purple-stemmed aster (Symphyotrichum puniceum).  They appear somewhat similar to the New England aster but have lighter lavender ray flowers and a purple, pubescent stem.  A couple photos above shows just how nicely the two species can mesh when growing side by side.

Yellow Buckeye  ~  Aesculus flava

One of the earliest woody plant species to lose its leaves each year is the yellow buckeye (Aesculus flava), which also happens to be one of the first plants to leaf out every early spring.  Their fall color leaves much to be desired but its branches can still draw some attention for the large, smooth, and leathery husks containing the well-known buckeye nut.

Large-leaved Aster  ~  Eurybia macrophylla

Scattered in the wood's lower slopes was one of my favorite species of Asteraceae, the large-leaved aster (Eurybia macrophylla).  The pale lavender flower heads arise from the large basal leaves come fall and add a soft touch of color to the forest.  Large colonies of plants can act as an attractive ground cover with their basal leaves that are quite obvious and noticeable when making an ID.

Chinese Chestnut  ~  Castanea mollissima

One of the most surprising discoveries along my country road is a mature, flowering/fruiting chestnut tree!  Alas, don't get too excited as my suspicions were quickly confirmed when I felt the wooly undersides of the leaves and new growth twigs.  This is a Chinese chestnut (Castanea mollissima), which is strikingly similar to our native American species (C. dentata) but differs in having its new growth covered in wooly hairs while our species is completely smooth (glabrous).  Regardless it was still neat to see a chestnut tree packed full of its tennis ball sized spiky fruits.

Musclewood  ~  Carpinus caroliniana

The musclewood (Carpinus carolinana) leaves were beginning to show signs of changing as photosynthesis shuts down and chlorophyll drains from the leaves.

Shagbark Hickory  ~  Carya ovata

It wouldn't truly be fall without the sound of walnuts, acorns, and hickory nuts falling from their limbs and branches to the ground below.  Fruit production among the oaks and hickories seems to have had a good year as I've seen many trees loaded with nuts; excellent news for the numerous woodland critters that will need some over-wintering sustenance.

Spicebush  ~  Lindera benzoin

The brilliant mature red drupes of the spicebush (Lindera benzoin) rarely linger on the shrubs come fall as the migrating birds are desperate to build up their fat reserves for the long flight south.  Spicebush berries are considered one of the best high-quality fruits for their high lipid (fat) content and can go a long way in powering a one-to-two ounce bird to central and South America.

I hope to bring more of southeastern Ohio's gorgeous fall scenery and wildflowers to the computer screen as the season wanes.  Let's hope this recent rain and some renewed sunny days combined with clear, cool nights will allow this fall's peak foliage show to not be a bust as the spring and summer's drought would suggest is likely.

Quiet Walk Through the Woods

September 11th draws a lot of thoughts and emotions out of just about everyone.  The events of that day eleven years ago have changed and molded all of us in one way or another, even as the catastrophe itself slowly falls farther into the past.  For your blogger, September 11th has always had a distinction all its own since he was born.  I can still remember sitting in my 8th grade history class and watching that day go from just being my birthday to a day the world would never forget.

Eleven years later I find myself fully acclimated to sharing the date with the country's worst act of terrorism and celebrate/mourn the day separately but together.  Since moving down to the Athens area in southeastern Ohio four years ago, I have done my best to spend a couple hours each birth day outside in the realm of the natural world, alone and enveloped in its beauty and calming charm.  A couple hours of myself and what means most to me to be spent reflecting on the past year and the blessings and positive experiences I've had.  A couple hours to be at peace and without a care or worry in the world.  A couple hours devoted to the intricate mosaic of life I'm forever intertwined with.  To go out into the woods on a cool, sunny early fall afternoon and smell the dirt and leaves, glance the brilliant sapphire blue sky through the patchwork canopy is something that gives my heart and soul true peace and healing.  Anyone who has a similar attachment and relationship with the natural world understands where I'm coming from; it's just a feeling and state of mind achieved only by those who take the time and patience to seek it out.  The best part is it's always there waiting for you to return.

My favorite secluded haunt in Zaleski state forest

I decided to spend this year's annual solo hike in one of my favorite areas in the county.  I've spoke of it before when I told the story of the green adder's mouth orchid a couple months ago.  I haven't been to this particular spot in some time and decided to see what old friends I could find in bloom throughout the diverse landscape.

White Wood Aster  ~  Eurybia divaricata

Blooming throughout the lower slopes of the ravine and stream terrace were the white petaled flowers of the white wood aster (Eurybia divaricata).  The fall-blooming asters can be a challenge and pain to identify to species but this common taxa can be readily ID'ed by the zig-zag pattern of the stem and white color of the ray flowers.  Once the inner disc flowers are pollinated they turn from golden yellow to purplish brown as seen above.

Wild Stonecrop  ~  Sedum ternatum

Moving further into the ravine, the stream bed and banks become carpeted with the thick, fleshy leaves of one of Ohio's only native succulents, wild stonecrop (Sedum ternatum).  The flowers bloom in mid to late spring and are long gone come autumn but that doesn't take away from the aesthetic beauty and presence of the plant.  It's quite common in wet, shaded, rocky areas throughout the unglaciated portion of the state and is one of my favorite plants spring through fall.

Beech Drops  ~  Epifagus virginiana

Come late August the east-facing slope's forest floor comes alive with the hardly noticeable but very common beech drops (Epifagus virginiana), a parasitic plant from the broomrape family (Orobanchaceae).  If you haven't guessed already, this plants only host plant is the American beech (Fagus grandifolia) and utilizes the beech's root system for nutrients and sustenance.  The chasmogamous (open) flowers at the top of the stem are largely sterile while the lower pistillate flowers are cleistogamous (closed) and self-pollinating.

Crooked-Stem Aster  ~  Symphyotrichum prenanthoides

Another common aster species of the ravine and lower moist slopes is the accurately named cooked-stem aster (Symphyotrichum prenanthoides).  The pale lavender ray flowers; zig-zagged stem; and long, winged petioled leaves that clasp at the base help to distinguish it.  It's a common species found in just about any wet situation.

Sun fading behind the old, mature trees on the east-facing slope

The afternoon sun began to dip behind the east-facing slope's ridges and cast long shadows across the narrowing ravine.  The old-growth trees thick trunks rise precipitously into the canopy with hardly a limb for 50+ feet.  Sugar maple, tuliptree, basswood, white oak, red oak, wild black cherry, yellow buckeye, and beech make up the canopy species composition, an impressive amount of diversity.

Coral fungus of some kind, Artomyces genus?

While most people seem to associate spring with mushrooms, it's actually the fall when the highest diversity can be seen in the woodlands and forests.  One of the more common species I encounter is this guy pictured above.  Now, I'm no mycologist but I believe this to be a species of coral fungus from the Artomyces  genus.  It always seems to be growing in heavy leaf litter/humus in mixed deciduous forests of varying moisture gradients.

Tall White Rattlesnake-root  ~  Prenanthes altissima

Growing in open areas and along the woodland margins was some of Ohio's most common species of rattlesnake-root, the tall white rattlesnake-root (Prenanthes altisimma).  Of the seven species of Prenanthes  native to Ohio, this species has the smallest flowers and despite the name 'tall' is not among the tallest of taxon.  Look for an in-depth treatment and ID post on the Prenanthes genus soon!

White Turtlehead  ~  Chelone glabra

Even though I've explored and hiked this spot countless times before all throughout the year, I always seem to come across something new each visit.  This time around I was pleased to discover some white turtlehead (Chelone glabra) plants blooming along the stream banks.  I don't think it's hard to picture the resemblance of a turtle's head in the unique inflorescences.  It's presence was a very welcome sight as this species is commonly associated with high-quality wetlands and riparian zones.

Thin-Leaved Sunflower  ~  Helianthus decapetalus

Close to the white turtlehead plants were some fresh specimens of the thin-leaved sunflower (Helianthus decapetalus) still in flower.  Many have frustrating experiences trying to nail down the identity of Ohio's numerous sunflowers but with time, practice, and hands on experience in the field the lines become more clear.  Another common name for this species is the ten-petaled sunflower however in all my wanderings I've never seen a ten-petaled specimen, so I prefer the thin-leaved moniker.  As with the Prenanthes, look for a future post dedicated to some helpful ID characteristics on all of Ohio's native Helianthus species.

Blue Mistflower  ~  Conoclinium coelestinum

A hard-to-miss and frequently seen fall wildflower of southern Ohio's wet fields, roadsides, and thickets is the striking blue mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum).  Formally a Eupatorium, further scientific study has placed this species in a new genus Conoclinium with a couple other North American taxon.  The frilly countless 'strings' are not petals but actually stamens.

Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) seed pods with milkweed bug larvae

As I neared the road and the end of my slow and enjoyable saunter through the woods, I came across a small field full of common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) seed pods already matured and releasing their seeds to the air.  Upon closer inspection of one plant revealed several large milkweed bug larvae (Oncopeltus fasciatus) presumably making a meal of the pods contents.  It made me think back to my 'larval' days as a young kid carelessly playing with friends and no thought on the future and what it may hold. Those days feel like a lifetime and a half ago and merely a memory in my head.  I've enjoyed my growth into adulthood and the challenges and experiences the road has supplied.  I jumped back into the car and returned to civilization with awaiting friends for an evening of celebration.  I thanked Mother Nature for a day well spent and already looked forward to next year's annual birthday excursion.

Saving the Best for Last

Is it really October already?  It seems like just last month I was looking out my frosted windows with dreams of hepaticas and snow trillium in my botanically deprived head.  It's been an incredible year I won't soon forget but it's not over just yet.  Autumn is hands down my favorite time of the year, no matter how fleeting it seems.  This season is a refreshing change from last year's fall where a rainless summer produced little color and enthusiasm.  My forested drives to and from campus explode with the fire orange of sugar maples, deep crimsons of sourwood and the tie-dye patchwork of sweetgum to name a few.  The weather this past week has been nearly perfect for producing an extra sharp pigment performance this time around.  Bright, sunny days accompanied with clear and cool nights really bring out the most intense reds, oranges and yellows.  It's days like these that make me extremely thankful to live in the hills of southeastern Ohio.  While most people focus on the trees this time of year it would be a shame to ignore the last wildflowers of the season, proudly displaying their beauty for the careful observer.

Lesser Fringed Gentian - Gentianopsis virgata

One of the last to unveil its delicate artistry is the Lesser Fringed Gentian (Gentianopsis virgata).  Mother nature really does save the best for last!  I was disappointed in my searches last fall for this stunning member of the Gentian family (Gentianaceae) and was forced to wait until this past Saturday to make its acquaintance and it was worth every second.

Lesser Fringed Gentian - Gentianopsis virgata

It was mid-morning when I arrived at the secretive fen complex somewhere in central Ohio.  Dew still clung to the shadows as the sun carved through the remaining fog.  My footsteps fell silently on the moist, fallen leaves as I slowly made my way through the perimeter forest.  Suddenly I was greeted by a large, open expanse of wet prairie colored gold with Indian Grass and spotted with blue, yellow and purple flowers.  Willow-leaved Aster (Symphyotrichum praealtum), Ohio Goldenrod (Oligoneuron ohioense) and Nodding Ladies-tresses (Spiranthes cernua) were scattered amongst the grass but I was most interested in the splashes of brilliant blue just peaking above the vegetation.

Lesser Fringed Gentian - Gentianopsis virgata

The clear, sapphire skies were only bested by the even more intense hues of the fringed gentians.  The plants pictured above were just starting to unfurl their four fringed petals as the sun spilled over the fen.  Under cloudy and nighttime conditions these flowers curl their petals tightly together in a vertical fashion, which honestly makes for just as pretty a capture as fully open.

Lesser Fringed Gentian - Gentianopsis virgata

There are two Gentianopsis species native to Ohio; the lesser fringed (G. virgata), which is featured in this post, and greater fringed gentian (G. crinita).  Both are nearly identical at first glance but can be separated with relative ease.  The amount of fringing around the petals a means for distinguishing which species you have but can be very variable.  The lesser gentian's fringing tapers to nearly none at all at the rounded end of the petal (seen above), while the greater gentian's fringing runs continuously and evenly all the way around the petal.  The leaves are your best bet with the greater fringed having shorter, more wide lanceolate leaves; while the lesser fringed has long, much narrower and almost linear leaves.  Both species are listed as potentially threatened with G. virgata predominately in the southern half of the state and G. crinita found in the northern half; most frequently in the northeast near Lake Erie.

Lesser Fringed Gentian - Gentianopsis virgata

Gentianopsis virgata is a calciphile, growing in calcareous situations such as fens, seeps, shorelines and marly sand.  These gorgeous annuals were once much more common throughout our state and the Great Lakes region until draining and habitat destruction ruined their unique and diverse wetland homes.  I would love to travel back to pre-settlement Ohio and look out across the large fens and wet meadows come October and see this remarkable plant bloom by the thousands.

Lesser Fringed Gentian - Gentianopsis virgata

Each flower seems to have been carefully stitched and made of the finest silk and then allowed to tatter and fray in the chilled Autumn winds.  I could have spent all day in the presence of these remarkable wildflowers.  I just wanted to sit down on a patch of grass and feel the sun warm my body and soul as the migrating birds whistled their goodbyes for the year and hope that moment would last forever.  I love finding places where the stain and evidence of mankind disappears and I'm left feeling alone in the world.  A good alone, the kind only a true outdoors loving person understands.  No sounds, smells or sights other than what exists naturally and belongs.  I don't know how other naturalists and pro-nature folks feel but my best moments in nature are when I'm alone, I've never felt so at peace as in those perfectly timed moments.  They really are one of life's ineffable experiences.

Lesser Fringed Gentian - Gentianopsis virgata

I hope this amazing fen complex exists for years to come; its seclusion and secret is safe with me.  Places like this don't increase in number but are ever losing ground to natural succession, man-made destruction and climate change.  I look forward to seeing my new found friend again next year as the leaves begin to change and winter beckons once again.  That's the beauty about botany; each of these species of plant that I find so mesmerizing is 'someone' I know who comes and goes at a specific time and place.  It's that 51 weeks of patience in-between that keeps me going.  Always something to look forward to and picture in your mind.  I apologize for the extended absence but rest-assured I'll be back soon to continue bringing you the natural treasures of Ohio.  I have plenty more to come over the winter months including finishing up my Bruce peninsula trip and Ohio prairies series!  Thanks for reading!